Part 3Professional Barbering Chapter 13 Mens Facial Massage

Part 3Professional Barbering Chapter 13 Mens Facial Massage

Part 3Professional Barbering Chapter 13 Mens Facial Massage and Treatments 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Learning Objectives Describe the benefits of facial massage and treatments. Discuss the location and stimulation of facial muscles and nerves. Name and demonstrate massage manipulations. Demonstrate the use of facial treatment equipment. Discuss products used in facial treatments. Identify skin types and appropriate facial treatments

and products. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Key TermsProperties astringent direct surface application effleurage electric massager friction indirect application motor point

muscles percussion ptrissage phoresis rolling cream tapotement tonics vibration 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use

as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial MassageIntroduction Benefits: relaxing service; improves appearance of skin Requires ability to analyze skin conditions Requires knowledge of the anatomy of the head, face, and neck; primary sub dermal systems; massage theory Subdermal systems associated with facials: Muscles: fibrous tissues with ability to stretch, contract, and produce all body movements Nerves: fibrous cords that transmit messages from the brain and spinal column to and from body parts Arteries: elastic, thick-walled blood vessels that transport blood under very high pressure 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use

as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes Benefits - : relaxing service; improves appearance of skin. Barber needs to know: Primary sub dermal systems Skin Types Structures of the head, face & neck There are 3 major sub dermal systems associated with facial massages. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use.

Face MassageMuscles Muscle stimulation Massage: hands or vibrator (massager) Electric current: high frequency and faradic Light rays: infrared and ultraviolet rays Heat rays: heat lamps or heat caps Moist heat: steamers and steam towels Nerve impulses: through nervous system Chemicals: certain acids and salts

2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes You can stimulate Muscles and Nerves with: Massage Electric Current Light Rays Heat Rays Moist Heat

Nerve Impulses Chemicals The muscles of the head that the barber is concerned with for massage are voluntary. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Face Muscles Affected by Massage 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes 1. Platysma broad muscle from the chest & shoulder to side of chin.

2. Risorius from the masseter to the angle of the mouth. 3. Frontalis part of the epicranius. 4. Procerus covers the top of the nose. 5. Triangularis draws down the corner of the mouth. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes 6. Trapezius allows shoulder movement. 7. Depressor labii inferious surrounds lower lip.

Simulating the nerves causes the muscles to contract. Muscle fiber is strengthened by massage. Massage improves circulation. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial MassageNerves Nerve stimulation

Chemicals: certain acids or salts Massage: hands or electric vibrator Electric current: high frequency Light rays: infrared rays Heat rays: heat lamps or heat caps Moist heat: steamers and steam towels 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes Cranial nerves are all connected to a part of the brain surface. Optic nerves control sight. Olfactory nerves control smell. Glossopharyngeal nerve controls taste. Lesser occipital affects the scalp &

muscles at the base of the skull. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes Nerves are stimulated in facial treatments with the following: Massage Electric Current High-Frequency Current Infrared light Heating Lamps Chemicals 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Face Nerves Affected by Massage

2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial Arteries and Veins Affected by Massage Arteries Greater occipital at back of head: affects scalp up to top of head Lesser occipital at base of skull: affects scalp and muscles of this region Greater auricular at side of neck: affects external ears and areas in front and back of the ears Cutaneous colli at side of the neck: affects front and sides of neck down to the breastbone Veins

Internal jugular and external jugular: parallel to the arteries; carry deoxygenated blood returning to the heart from the head, face, and neck 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes Arteries Greater occipital artery affects scalp to top of head. Lesser occipital at base of skull: affects scalp and muscles of this region. Veins Jugular veins carry blood to the heart from the head, face, and neck. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use.

Theory of MassageCautions Cautions Do not perform massage manipulations when signs of inflammation, infection, pustules, or lesions are present. Do not perform massage manipulations or hot steam towel applications when the client has high blood pressure. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Theory of MassageOverview Massage can soothe, relax, or stimulate. Benefits depend on type and intensity of massage.

Manipulations are performed systematically. Use judgment and moderation in massage Massage requires a skillful touch. Direct any pressure in an upward direction. (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Theory of MassageOverview Physiological effects of massage

The skin and its structures are nourished. Muscle fiber is stimulated and strengthened. Fat cells are reduced; pain may be relieved. Blood circulation is increased. Activity of skin and scalp glands is stimulated. Massage renders skin soft and pliable and soothes nerves. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes 3 types of massage treatments: Soothing, Mildly Stimulating, Strongly Stimulating. Temperature results: Applying heat to the skin cause relaxation.

Applying cold to skin causes contraction. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Theory of MassageMotor Points 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Theory of MassageMassage Movements Effleurage Stroking movement; perform in a slow, rhythmic manner with no pressure; soothes

Ptrissage Kneading movement; perform with light, firm pressure; invigorates Friction Friction: deep rubbing movement with pressure; stimulates 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. (Continued) Theory of MassageMassage Movements Percussion (tapotement) Quick tapping, slapping,

or hacking movements; most stimulating movement Vibration Rapid shaking movement perform with fingertips, massage, or vibrator; avoid over-stimulation 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes Effleurage Stroking movement; perform in a slow, rhythmic manner with

no pressure; soothes Percussion (tapotement) Quick tapping, slapping, or hacking movements; most stimulating movement Ptrissage Vibration Rapid shaking movement Kneading movement; perform with fingertips, perform with light, firm pressure; invigorates massage, or vibrator; avoid over-stimulation. Friction

Friction: deep rubbing movement with pressure; stimulates 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Theory of MassageManipulations Stroking movement Rotary movement 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial MassageEquipment Electric appliances

Electric massager: produces stimulation Brush machine: cleanses and exfoliates Steamers: softening and cleansing Facial machines: supply different currents and/or microdermabrasion capabilities Therapeutic lamps: provide different light rays (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial MassageEquipment

Tesla high-frequency current Also called violet ray Uses electrodes Primary actions are thermal and antiseptic Does not produce muscular contractions or chemical changes Applications Direct, indirect, general electrification 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. (Continued) Facial MassageEquipment Galvanic current

Positive and negative poles produce chemical and ionic reactions in skin Desincrustation: facilitates deep pore cleansing by using galvanic current to create chemical reactions that emulsify or liquefy sebum Phoresis: process of forcing chemical solutions into unbroken skin by way of a galvanic current Iontophoresis: the introduction of ions; uses galvanic current to apply water-soluble solutions into deeper layers of the skin (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial MassageEquipment Galvanic current, (continued) Two Forms of Ionic Penetration

Cataphoresis Anaphoresis positive pole (anode) negative pole (cathode) acidic products alkaline products calms nerves decreases blood circulation

stimulates nerves increases blood circulation Five-in-one machine with galvanic electrodes (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial MassageEquipment Ultraviolet ray lamps

Used to treat acne, tinea, seborrhea, dandruff Have a germicidal effect Placed 30" to 36" from skin Start with 2- to 3-minute exposure Require client to wear opaque eye protectors Require barber to wear tinted safety glasses (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial MassageEquipment Infrared ray lamps

Produce soothing and beneficial type of heat Increase blood flow, metabolism, chemical changes, and glandular activity Are placed about 30" from the skin Require protection for clients eyes Electrical equipment safety precautions 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial TreatmentsOverview Preservative treatments Help to maintain the health of facial skin Corrective treatments Intended for dry or oily skin, blackheads, age lines, and

minor acne Benefits Cleanse, increase circulation and glandular activity; relaxes nerves; maintain muscle tone; correct some disorders; help prevent wrinkle or age line formation; improve skin texture and complexion; help reduce fatty tissue. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial TreatmentsSupplies and Products

Supplies terry cloth towels capes or drapes barber chair/facial bed disposable gloves, applicators, pledgets, cosmetic sponges, plastic caps, etc. appliances (optional)

Products cleansing creams rolling cream toners, fresheners, and astringents moisturizers exfoliating scrubs masks and packs massage creams 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use.

Facial Treatments Skin Types and Analysis Skin types Dry Normal Combination Oily Wrinkled Skin analysis Type Condition Appearance Texture Client consultation

Product selection depends on skin type and the procedure to be performed. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial Treatments Product Application Order of product application:

Cleanser Exfoliant (scrub or rolling cream) Massage cream Cleanser Freshener (low alcohol content) Mask or pack Toner or astringent Moisturizer 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial TreatmentsBasic Facial Basic facial: also called scientific rest facial Preparation 1. Arrange supplies in a convenient location. 2. Wash your hands.

Procedure 1. Drape client and engage in consultation. 2. Perform skin analysis and make product selection. 3. Place barrier between clients head and headrest. Adjust headrest, recline chair, check client comfort. 4. Protect clients hair with a towel or cap. (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial TreatmentsBasic Facial 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Apply cleansing cream; use stroking and rotary movements. Remove cleansing cream with warm, damp towel. Apply two or three steam towels to open pores. Reapply cleansing cream with the fingertips. Gently massage with hands or brush machine using continuous rhythmic movements. 10. Wipe off excess cleansing cream with a warm towel. 11. Apply exfoliating product; lightly massage over skin 12. Apply steam towel. Wipe off excess product until skin is free of exfoliating residue. (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial TreatmentsBasic Facial

13. Gently wipe selected tonic over the face and pat dry. 14. Apply mask or pack and allow to dry. 15. Apply moist towel to soften mask or pack. Wipe residue. 16. Gently wipe toner or astringent over face and pat dry. 17. Apply moisturizer with effleurage movement. 18. Apply talc if client desires. Remove any excess. 19. Raise chair back; assist client to sitting position (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial TreatmentsBasic Facial Clean-up 1. Discard all disposable supplies and materials.

2. Wipe containers and close tightly; store in appropriate place. 3. Sanitize and disinfect all non-disposable implements. 4. Wash your hands. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Facial TreatmentsCustomer Service Reminders

Provide a relaxing atmosphere. Organize supplies and products. Follow a systematic procedure. Perform massage properly and thoroughly. Avoid: Harming the skin or carelessness Excessive talking Breathing in clients face 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Cornell Notes Considerations when providing facial: Apply pressure in an upward direction when giving stimulating or relaxing massage.

Avoid abrupt motions, feather hands off face. When doing massage manipulations go with the grain of the beard. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Other Types of Facial Treatments Vibratory facial Performed with an electric massager Avoid heavy contact with clients skin Do not use if heart problems, fever, or skin Inflammations exist Rolling cream facial Designed to cleanse and stimulate the skin For normal, oily, or thick skin types

Avoid use on dry, acne-prone, sensitive, or thin skin (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Other Types of Facial Treatments Facial for dry skin Objective is to moisturize the skin Infrared rays, galvanic current, or indirect high-frequency current may be used Facial for oily skin and blackheads Blackheads caused by hardened masses of sebum Ultraviolet light application may be used Facial for acne Acne, a disorder of the sebaceous glands

May be performed as prescribed by clients physician (Continued) 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. Other Types of Facial Treatments Microdermabrasion New form of mechanical exfoliation Machine is an electronic vacuum used to spray microcrystals across skin surface using closed stainless steel or glass pressurized wand Used to diminish sun damage, pigmentations, comedones, wrinkles, and coarse textured skin May be available in mens spas or grooming parlors CAUTION: Always check state regulations about using microdermabrasion in the barbershop!

2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. What Did We Learn and Do Today? Discussed benefits of facial massage and treatments. Reviewed the location and stimulation of muscles and nerves relative to facial massage. Described and discussed the benefits of massage. Performed facial massage manipulations. Performed a skin analysis. Performed a basic facial. Identified products used in facial treatments. Identified skin types, facial treatments, and products. 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use.

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